Fausto Puglisi on Reframing Desire for a New Generation

Roberto Cavalli, the iconic Italian fashion house known for its bold and sensual designs, has been making waves in the fashion industry for over five decades. And at the helm of this luxury brand for the past six years was creative director, Paul Surridge. As Surridge reflects on his time with the brand, he shares how he brought a new level of currency to Cavalli's maximalist playbook of sensuality and freedom. When Surridge took over as creative director in 2017, he inherited a brand that was known for its extravagant and over-the-top designs. However, he saw an opportunity to bring a fresh perspective to the brand while still staying true to its DNA. Surridge's vision was to create a more modern and relevant version of Cavalli, one that would appeal to a wider audience without losing its signature sensuality and freedom. One of the first things Surridge did was to streamline the brand's aesthetic. He focused on creating a more cohesive and refined collection, moving away from the excessive and sometimes chaotic designs that Cavalli was known for. This shift was evident in his first collection for the brand, which featured a mix of bold prints and sleek silhouettes, a perfect balance of Cavalli's signature sensuality and Surridge's modern touch. Surridge also brought a new level of craftsmanship to the brand. He worked closely with the in-house atelier to ensure that each piece was crafted with the utmost attention to detail. This attention to quality and craftsmanship elevated the brand's image and made it more desirable to luxury consumers. But perhaps Surridge's biggest contribution to Cavalli was his ability to make the brand more relevant and current. He understood the importance of staying on top of trends and incorporating them into the brand's designs without compromising its identity. Surridge's collections for Cavalli were a perfect blend of timeless elegance and contemporary trends, making them appealing to both loyal customers and new audiences. In addition to his creative vision, Surridge also brought a strong business acumen to the brand. He understood the importance of creating a strong brand image and expanding its reach. Under his leadership, Cavalli opened new stores in key markets such as China and the Middle East, expanding its global presence and attracting a new customer base. Surridge's tenure at Cavalli was not without its challenges. The brand faced financial difficulties and went through a restructuring process during his time as creative director. However, Surridge remained committed to his vision and continued to push the brand forward, even during the most challenging times. As Surridge reflects on his time with Cavalli, he is proud of the impact he has made on the brand. He has successfully brought a new level of currency to Cavalli's maximalist playbook, making it more relevant and desirable to a wider audience. His departure from the brand in 2019 was met with sadness by the fashion world, but his legacy at Cavalli will continue to inspire and influence future collections. In conclusion, Paul Surridge's six-year tenure as creative director at Roberto Cavalli was a period of transformation and growth for the brand. He successfully modernized the brand's aesthetic, elevated its craftsmanship, and made it more relevant and current. Surridge's contribution to Cavalli's legacy will be remembered and celebrated for years to come.